Driving past Hancock in Eastown on any given day feels like you are missing out on the big annual family picnic. Except, here, you likely will not run into extended relatives that you only see once a year and your aunt’s lukewarm potato salad doesn’t stand a chance against Hancock’s Nashville hot chicken.

Hancock’s chicken is the best food I have ever had from a gas station. Granted it hasn’t been a gas station in decades and has been refurbished into a wholesome family restaurant that sports an old-school cookout aesthetic. They offer indoor and outdoor dining, but if it’s nice out you will want to opt for the outdoor option at the various sized picnic tables, sheltered from the elements by big red umbrellas. 

If you find yourself driving by Hancock in the fall and winter months, you might wonder what their secret is to keep the summer spirit contained within their white wooden fences. The answer: turf. This decorative element also provides an additional advantage to eating at Hancock rather than an actual park picnic. Fake grass means no dirt to kick up on your white sneakers or mud for your heels to sink into. That is if heels happen to be your fried chicken dinner shoes of choice.

When I decided to go to Hancock in October, I anticipated the summer vibe to seem so last season. I was pleasantly surprised how the atmosphere was actually enhanced by the vibrant fall colors contrasting against the red decor and green turf. 

If you are not in the mood for chicken then don’t waste your time here because that is kind of their thing. With the exception of a few vegetarian substitutes, your choices are fried chicken, chicken tenders or a chicken sandwich. It’s obvious that the simple menu was not a decision made out of laziness but in pride of their perfected fried chicken recipe.

You are, however, given multiple sauce options. You can choose to douse your chicken in sweet, hot, hotter or hottest. They will toss your chicken in your sauce of choice unless you ask for it on the side for dipping. The sweet sauce has a complex flavor that tastes like a combination of spices in honey. If you can handle the spice, the hot is the way to go. The oily sauce contains the perfect balance of flavor and heat. Just make sure whatever side you order is equipped to extinguish the inevitable fire in your mouth. The pimento cheese and saltines are a good choice for this, however, it is not completely spice-less. 

Among the many side options, the strongest include the braised greens, drop biscuit and waffle fries. The only side that disappoints is the pimento mac & cheese. Instead of light and creamy, the sauce is thick and sticky and it lacks the bold flavor brought by the pimento cheese shareable plate. 

Each dish delivers complex flavors despite the menu’s simplicity. But, whatever you do, don’t pair the hot chicken with the “Jala At Me” cocktail (cucumber and jalapeño infused gin and lime juice). While each is separately delicious, it’s not worth the burn.